THE SNOW LION NEWSLETTER

On Pilgrimage in Tibet
An Interview with Khenpo Phuntsok Tashi
by Glenn H. Mullin

The Tibetan word for pilgrimage is ney-chen khorra, or "walkaround of the great sites." It is one of the favorite activities of Central Asians from all walks of life, from kings and queens to farmers and businessmen, and of course monks and nuns. Most Tibetans make a one-hour walkaround of the main temples and hermitages of their village every morning, and often the same again in the evening. They also try to go on larger walkarounds once a year or so. In this they combine what to us would be the annual holiday outing, a family getaway, an extended picnic (often with tenting), and an intense spiritual undertaking somewhat akin to a meditation retreat. The pilgrimage entails visiting the great power sites where previous masters of great renown made meditation, achieved enlightenment, and taught to students whose legacies came to fill the pages of history books.

Khenpo Phuntsok Tashi at Samye Monastery. (Photo by Rosanne Malinowski.)

Most Tibetans make a one-hour walkaround of the main temples and hermitages of their village every morning, and often the same again in the evening. They also try to go on larger walkarounds once a year or so. In this they combine what to us would be the annual holiday outing, a family getaway, an extended picnic (often with tenting), and an intense spiritual undertaking somewhat akin to a meditation retreat. The pilgrimage entails visiting the great power sites where previous masters of great renown made meditation, achieved enlightenment, and taught to students whose legacies came to fill the pages of history books.

During the spring of 2004 I had the honor of leading a vision quest pilgrimage to the Oracle Lake. Each pilgrimage has its own unexpected boons. A special delight on this pilgrimage came in the form of a wonderful Bhutanese lama, Khenpo Tashi. An American friend of his, Ms. Susan Roe, had won the Snow Lion draw for a free seat on our pilgrimage, but was unable to attend herself. She contacted me and asked if she could give her prize to a Bhutanese monk.

Throughout the pilgrimage Khenpo remained a source of joy and delight for all of us. He joined us in meditation in each of the sites, and in the Nyingma monasteries gave mantra transmissions and led the sessions. Snow Lion asked that I interview him for their magazine. At first Khenpo was somewhat reluctant, for humility is an integral aspect of his character. However, I urged him to agree, and spoke of the how beneficial it would be for American readers to learn of the traditional attitudes toward and benefits of Buddhist pilgrimage. He laughed and told me to turn on the tape recorder.

Khenpo dancing at Drak Yerpa. (Photo by William Wood.)

After traveling with us for a week or so Khenpo got in the habit of referring to me as "Gesheyla." I tried to dissuade him from the habit, but he continued against my objections. He used the term throughout the interview. My apologies to anyone to whom it seems inappropriate, but it seems that these Bhutanese khenpos cannot be controlled.

GHM: Could Khenpo-la tell us something about your own personal background, and how you came to be on pilgrimage in Tibet with twenty-one wild and wooly American Buddhists?

Khenpo: Actually, (laughing) this group was not so wild and wooly. Everyone who was on it seemed deeply spiritual. They were not mere tourists, but were on the pilgrimage to learn and get inner benefit. There is no need to say much about my life. In brief, I was born in Bhutan, and as a young man became a monk. I then had the great good fortune to travel to India and train under many of the greatest living Buddhist masters. Eventually I received the khenpo degree and I follow Rimey tradition, because I studied with masters of all Tibetan Buddhist Schools. Now I live in Bhutan, where I do what I can to preserve and continue our ancient Buddhist culture.

Khenpo and a lama known as Kangyur Rinpoche who has been overseeing the building of the Chakpori Kangyur Choten. (Photo by George Heckert.)

Even though I had wanted to make pilgrimage to Lhasa for many years, it did not materialize. It is not always easy for Buddhist monks and lamas from Bhutan to travel in Central Tibet. I am very fortunate that the agencies in Nepal and Tibet presented my case very skillfully, and that the Chinese authorities gave their permission for me to participate. And of course my friend Susan Roe was very kind to offer me her place on this pilgrimage with Gesheyla Glenn.

GHM: Were you very concerned, under the present circumstances, about traveling in Tibet as a monk?

Khenpo: At first I was quite concerned. For the first day I wore lay clothing.  Of course externals do not matter much to a monk, and the important thing is inner purity. But because I have been a monk for so many years, I felt somewhat uncomfortable in lay dress. Then you, Gesheyla, suggested to me that I put my robes back on, and I did so. I was happy to discover that once one is in Tibet the situation is much more relaxed than I had anticipated. There was no problem in being in robes, and I was relieved to be able to wear them in the monasteries we visited.   GHM: On our first day in Lhasa we visited the Jokhang Temple, and later we were able to offer mang cha there. What was your impression of the monks there? Did you feel that they are authentic practitioners? Sometimes one hears it said that the monks of the Potala, Jokhang and even Tashi Lhunpo Monastery are mainly showcases for the government?

Khenpo at Mindroling Monastery. (Photo by Rosanne Malinowski.)

Khenpo: Certainly they are authentic. The older ones are fully ordained Buddhist monks, and the younger ones are novices in training. Wherever there are five fully ordained monks we use the term gendun, or sangha. They become one of the three objects of Buddhist refuge. This temple has over a hundred monks, so the merit of making offerings there is immeasurable. Moreover, because it is Tibet's oldest Buddhist monastery, and has been a place of practice and pilgrimage for thousands of high lamas for over fifteen centuries, it was a great privilege for us to be able to do this. Later in my room I was so overwhelmed with joy that I cried.

GHM: The following day we visited Drepung and Nechung. The monks were all very busy preparing for the seven day Bum-tshok ritual to Guru Rinpoche, but nonetheless took time to take us into the special chambers used by the previous Dalai and Panchen Lamas, and allow us to sit in meditation sessions there. Did you feel any ancient stirrings from the arousal of memories of previous lives?

Khenpo: (Laughing.) This was amazingly kind of the monks in those monasteries. And although I could not say that I remembered any of my previous lives, I certainly felt very inspired and uplifted. Meditation in those great ancient sites, where so many enlightened masters of the past have walked and sat, makes one's entire body and mind come alive. I felt utterly rejuvenated and transformed with each passing moment. It was an amazing experience.   GHM: After Lhasa we visited the Drak Yerpa cave complex. This mountain range has been very popular with the great Buddhist masters over the centuries. Guru Rinpoche meditated in a cave there for some time, as did Songtsen Gampo. There are also the meditation caves used by Atisha, Lama Drom Tonpa, and others. The group commented that you seemed especially joyful that day, and seemed to run up and down the mountain almost effortlessly.

Kangyur Rinpoche, Glenn Mullin and Khenpo Phuntsok Tashi. (Photo by Rosanne Malinowski.)

Khenpo: These caves are absolutely amazing. I had read so much about them over the years, but to see them in person was so much more that I had imagined. While we were meditating in Atisha's cave I felt so much joy that the tears began to run down my cheeks in streams.

Everyone who can visit it should make every effort to do so.

GHM: While we were there Khenpo helped us set up "The Drak Yerpa Ecological Management Team." As with many pilgrimage sites, Drak Yerpa suffers from a lack of public awareness on the part of visiting pilgrims, with the site becoming increasingly littered with plastic bags, bottles, cans and so forth. Khenpo: The problem is that pilgrims come from all over Central Asia, and from diverse backgrounds. Many are unaware of what is bio-degradable and what is not. They just throw away whatever is left over at the end of the day. Even the holy springs of Buddha Tara is becoming polluted with plastic bags and bottles. Unfortunately yaks and goats sometimes even die trying to eat these things.

Khenpo Phuntsok Tashi and Glenn Mullin in Tsongkhapa's cave. (Photo by William Wood.)

GHM: How did you like the roads from Olkha to the Oracle Lake?

Khenpo: The experience was a good lesson on the fragility of human life. The rains had started, and we crossed muddy passes that looked down into valleys a mile and more below. Everyone in the group did a lot of praying that day. (Laughter.)

I had been very excited about visiting Lhamo Latso, because Palden Lhamo is a very important practice in Bhutan. I was not prepared for the overwhelming beauty of the area. On seeing it, I could only think that this is what the buddhafield paradises must be like.

As for the lake itself, its special feature is that each and every pilgrim coming to it receives a personal vision. The lake has performed this visionary role for many centuries now.

One point I would like to make, however, is that people should be very respectful when there. They should meditate and gaze into the lake from the ridge above, and should not descend to do the khorra around the lake itself. This I feel for both Asian and Western pilgrims. Otherwise there is the danger that the lake could become polluted, and could lose its visionary powers.

GHM: Our last night in Tibet was spent camping above the Milarepa cave near Nyelam, and we were able to meditate there for a few hours. As a young man you had practiced the Six Yogas of Naropa, which descend in the lineage through Milarepa. Was the cave as powerful as the image created in your childhood imagination?

Khenpo: As a young man I memorized many of the mystical songs of Milarepa, and always tried to remember the practice site at which Milarepa had composed the work. As you know, Gesheyla, this cave was not on our original itinerary, and you added it for my benefit. When I learned that we would be camping there I prepared one of my favorite songs associated with the cave. Even though my voice is not so good, I wanted to sing it in the cave for the group, as an offering of friendship.

GHM: At the end of our pilgrimage our group did a small fund-raiser for a Buddhist School in Bhutan with which you are connected. Could you tell us something about this?

Khenpo: This monastery is called the Chakdor Lhakhang, or "Vajrapani Temple." My childhood teacher asked if I would try and raise some funds for it. He said to me, "Before we die we should do something to help these students who will perform important works in the future."

I do believe that this monastic school is a good investment, and will produce many good scholars for the future. We have finished much of the building work, such as main chapel, assembly hall, classrooms, residences, and so forth. Some things remain to be done, such as furnishings, school materials, and so forth. We have about 165 lay priests and monks in it.

Students can learn not only Buddhism, but also art, history, calligraphy, and other such subjects. I really believe that it will produce many important scholars for the future. Moreover, it offers traditional studies to both monks and lay students. It is a unique program, and anyone helping it can be confident of a wise investment.

If anyone wants to help, they can email me directly ("Khenpo Tashi", kedchigkhen@yahoo.com) and I will advise them on how to do so in accordance with their means.